Christmas in Naples

Fried pizza and struffoli that stand out in the window, darting capitoni in the tanks, crowds in San Gregorio Armeno, fireworks, lights. In the Neapolitan capital, Christmas is full of wonder and sounds.

And yet Naples also has silent sides: between the cloisters of the church, like the splendid, majolica of Santa Chiara; in the small museums (the magnificent Pio Monte della Misericordia, with the masterpiece of Caravaggio); among the streets that climb to the Certosa di San Martino, the viewpoint over the city.

But the most fascinating Christmas is in the dense network of alleys, set of the film Naples in Veils by Ferzan Özpetek. Roccocò, Mostaccioli, Babà and other typical sweets, can be bought at Capparelli (Via dei Tribunali, 327) or da Capriccio (Via Carbonara, 39) pastry shops, while in Montesanto the Pignasecca market offers Levantine suggestions, with its triumph of tripe, fish and vegetables.

Equally rich is the dense program of museums, from the archaeological to the museum of contemporary art the Madre.

Nativity scene Naples


Where to sleep: Grand Hotel Vesuvio - 3 nights starts at £630 per person including breakfast and private airport transfer. Travelling November and December

Where to eat: Ristorante Taverna La Riggiola (tavernalariggiola.com)

Travel's tip: Hidden among the alleys of Naples' historic centre, the Church of San Severo houses one of the greatest treasures of Naples: the Veiled Christ,  A unique work of art, so beautiful and perfectly sculpted as to seem real. (museosansevero.it)

Grand Hotel Vesuvio, Naples - View over Castel dell'Ovo